We pulled out of Tbilisi today to take one teacher trainer to Telavi on the Chechen/Dagestan border. We were in good spirits. Substantial snow had fallen in the night, and the sun was threatening to make in an appearance.

The road out of Tbilisi veered off to George W. Bush Avenue. Obviously, the Georgians felt some gratitude for some reason or another to the worst president in US history, but I wasn't sure what it was. As we drove past the parliament, which was heavily damaged in the Georgian civil war (1988-1993). You wouldn't know it today. All through the city, buildings that barely can be called buildings stand next to gleaming new bridges and glass things, and a very renovated parliament shows the Georgians are trying to move on. Yet there's a very major hangover.

It's a testament to Georgian enterprise that they've managed to pull it back together after civil war and an invasion. As we rolled to Telavi, men of various ages stood everywhere, playing cards or talking. Most were just standing. Unemployment is high. Crime is low. At least I thought so. As we went to dinner after a very, very long day, we witnessed a purse snatching and the resulting crying older woman. It was disconcerting as there was little we could do. The thief tore past us through an underground tunnel, the women lumbering after. The Georgians didn't seem to know what to do either.

Devastation versus restoration. Modernity next to crumbling edifices.

On a cultural aside, Georgia has the scariest drivers I've encountered on the planet. There is zero concern for pedestrians. It is harrowing to take the highway. We barely missed one major accident, and everyone assumed the OH SHIT position as the van rocked to what we thought would soon be a crash. We veered at the last moment, and death was avoided for today.

Food: Georgian food is out of this world, and given in such massive amounts that it makes you a little sick. They make cheeses that I've only heard about, and the bread is world-class. They use pomegranate in everything, and there is this garlic/spinach thing that it very common that I swear could be marketed at Marks and Spencer. Much more about these human delights shortly. I'm a bit overwhelmed to do the subject proper justice.

It was almost humbling today to be near the Chechen border. I was in the Czech Republic when the Russians first crushed Chechnya, and it was sad to know that not much has changed. To be in the part of the world where so much recent history has happened is a very real thrill for me.

However, the whirl of faces this week is getting a little tiring and I'm looking forward to finally getting to Batumi. There's only so many times you can shake hands and assimilate another face after being in non-stop motion for two weeks. I need to save a bit of energy for my students.